listener MA (Marrache) DRID Fashion Week
had no intention to chronicle the 52 th edition of Pasarela Cibeles (this his real name, and will always Rociito Rociito), since it is already struck by bloggers rather than addicts, former addicts and outsiders. But as the end of the day, this is my blog (and I fuck when I want) because there he goes.
This time I will not say anything about the (few) shows I liked, just nothing about the (many) they put me on the edge of the arch and I do want to review something about the attitude that, in my humble opinion, should prevail in this fashionable home appointment.
The data are devastating. According to the great Lucas Arraut (El País, 19/9/1910), this edition has lasted six days were expected an attendance of 60,000 people (official parades and showroom of the Ego), 50 parades, 1300 accredited journalists which just over 100 were foreign journalists (mainly Latin American capitals) and 3 million budget of which:
Ifema contributes 55% of the investment. Sponsors
number, 25%.
Madrid, 15%.
Designers, 5%.
These are the official figures of Cybele. All this, plus a maze of three pairs of nostrils that moves hundreds of people "related work" so that after the English fashion pundits want us to find cheese. How is it possible that the roll of the train that is a trend that struck down (no more than take a look at the street) we want it cast into (at least) three more shows like more???. See they not online?. You do not read fashion magazines?. They do not know that is something that already proposed Miu Miu last season?. Or IF you know?. I no longer understand anything. Long ago that I do not understand anything. Why
people who are supposed to know of his office perpetrated collections that make you want to mourn?. Victorio and Luchino should march in The Ego?. Where were those wonderful collections in which they merely do what they do best?. Sometimes progress is not necessarily good especially if you do not know where to go. Why
Angel Schelesser Hanibal Laguna and again and again present the same collection?. Cibeles
should drastically reduce their number of participants? What paint
Juana Martín, Carlos Díez, Javier Larraínzar or Modesto Lomba in this mess?
Given that the best collections are those of the people presenting bathroom, Cibeles should be reduced to that? Public
Why not start clapping endlessly with each output of the great Elio Benhayer?
do some collections are praised and others are not?
When will they change the model casting?
These are just some of the questions that occur to me all of a sudden but sure would be many more.
from this humble forum propose a radical change of attitude in the audience attending the parades. Do not include celebrity guests (who wear clothes in the front row of that tap and then pull Galliano in the finery without any restraint or modesty), or modern art hours or purchased bloggers.
I'm talking about people who truly is interested in fashion as cultural expression. That rare species will see Cibeles fashion.
Just as in the Real booed a tenor or applauded for fifteen minutes at a soprano ... why there is a similar attitude to fashion?.
I am afraid that until people will not rise to the nonsensical mess you are seeing on the catwalk, this is not going to change. Fashion as a culture but also as an industry will never be taken seriously until we do not like. Is urgently needed a change of attitude in press (embarrassing the retransmissions of the television only gives minimal coverage), sponsors (Not everything is to sell more vodka), organizers (someone will stop Cuca Solana feet) and above all, public. It is the only way. I doubt that Ferran Adria had become the best chef in the world without (of course) his talent and no critical attitude.
Someone has to say NO to stop this from being the cool place where people are going to backfire a couple of weeks per year.
For the sake of fashion and that if they do fashion.
Thursday, September 23, 2010
Monday, September 20, 2010
Stores Similar To Bebe
I'm from one generation to the grunge hit hard by hail fall cacereño when we thought all was lost. Too far by age of the alleged modernez and irreverence of the Madrid scene, especially the unbearable lightness of being hippie-corregrises post Franco, there was nothing to stir us as it is supposed to be in full early youth.
And suddenly, we look to the rainy English to direct our interest to rain elsewhere in the world: Seattle. Kurt Cobain and his family put us in a shaker and began to stir without mercy. Here we are ... entretenednos!. Nirvana, Pearl Jam, Hole (especially the fabulous Celebrity Skin) we confirmed that there were other worlds, there were other people in other parts of the world also felt that nothing existential. Was no longer the No Future Punk in the late seventies, not the angst of Generation X (whatever that is), was another matter. Was better.
No future, no way out, there is no possibility that this society that overwhelms you consume will give you the slightest chance to participate in this paradise. There is another option: have fun. No matter what you wear. It only matters that you a good time.
And it was the reign of the shirts for more t-shirts, lumberjack shirts, jackets, sweat pants, the jeans torn, the wool hats in summer. Grunge (or whatever then be understood as such), had become visible to the world when it was years exist in the working-class suburbs of big cities.
And as with everything, the market ate it. The video for Smell like teen spirit of Nirvana, repeated ad nauseam on MTV planetary populated the streets of dirty hair, t-shirts and Converse on who knew better times. Marc Jacobs became known to the general public precisely because of its luxe reinterpretation of what was happening off the catwalk. The whole world breathed again. A new fashion had arrived. Everything was labeled and in place. It was (again) spring in El Corte Ingles.
At that time the temple which was headed our steps daily El Ziel. Suffice it to say to get a brief idea of \u200b\u200bthe kitten's fur were proud that a skier Barbie pink dress hanging behind the bar. A declaration of intent. The parish was divided mainly into two: first, the survivors of the 80's (those who are everywhere), advanced in years (not in meats) and joint in hand always willing to give the plate with his adventures past anyone. I saw the Ramones at 80, I was at the concert Hardwood or I was one of the punks who threw eggs and burst (creating an indelible trauma hundreds of girls) Hombres G concert in Cathedral Square. Well look that well. I, me, me, me ...
On the other hand, was (were) the new breed, a mix of university students and ni-nis of all walks of life united by love of hashish and Mahoney and, of course, to grunge. Between joints (many) games Parcheesi and Trivial or long silences or introspective conversations peppered with phrases that later would become our personal history ("how people ...") spent the afternoon and evening of our tiny existence.
Of the few things I remember clearly at that time opiate (The Zielo was in some way, as the 80's, if you remember everything you have not lived) is that every evening at nine o'clock or maybe a little before, appeared at the bar a girl, probably Romanian, selling flowers, lighters or directly through the city begging. However, in the Zielo not. Bar Girls (solidarity like none), he served in silence, with hardly a nod in greeting, a Coca Cola. She sat on a stool, alone, without speaking to anyone, was carefully removed the scarf that covered his head, lit a cigar and drank his Coke. Slowly. No hurry. Was probably enjoying its best time of day. I also remember his clothes. That was the absolute best for us. Grunge was authentic.
When he finished his drink, turned to make handkerchief, he thanked just not talking to the girls and (never paid because the invited always) out of the bar. A street. To continue to sell flowers, or lighters or beg. A whatever. In daily life stopped for a moment, I suppose, would be all day waiting.
And we kept our existential nothingness, with our "everything sucks" with our discussions on the Subcomandante Marcos or the authenticity or otherwise of all that was Manu Chao. All this before returning to our homes with heating and hot water, with dinner and full bar with clean and comfortable bed and well enough to remain grunge.
Currently, there is little of that grunge that filled our lives in the turbulent (nothing to do with what came after) early 90's. Surely the strangest decade there have been few. Now on the street fashion is dictated by four bloggers hair in the wind and winners of all four players. Now street fashion chains are buying low cost. Now everything is more civilized. Where to stop!
Now what are the real grunge bringing the Romanian who sell flowers or rings Chinese vendors that cause seizures. While people no longer want to pretend to be poor. People either want to appear more rich than it is. Many of the inhabitants of El Zielo are down (we declined) a hell of a permanent contract and tie daily. Some have fallen into the clutches of a dark god and call their children Nachete, Gonzalete or Tristana. Marc Jacobs
now makes mess for Vuitton and Courtney Love photos with Karl. And that lucky. The usual
remain where they were. On the street. Lighters or selling flowers or begging.
Everything in its place. All quiet.
With the light out it's less Dangerous
Here We Are now entertain us I feel stupid
and contagious Here We Are
now entertain us ...
Tuesday, September 7, 2010
Baby Hammock For Sale
The real grunge Back to black Prada
Believe it or not, We are living in 2010. When I was little and thought in 2000 I imagined beaming it into college, picnicking colored pills provide all the energy I needed to live, sticking out my skate polish ultra light platinum silver with clothing. Since then, the future is never as expected.
Anyway, here I am, finishing the first decade of the new millennium and nothing that has come true. On the contrary, I have to take a conveyance dirty and clean every day, counting calories and crushing food always in the gym.
As if this were not enough, the surrounding reality persists, with stubbornness child in looking back constantly (I would say that ...). And is that enough to take a look around to realize that much remains for the future ideal of Huxley.
In the 60's, people of vision as Rabanne and Courreges dreamed of a future of plastic, straight lines and metal. Geniuses who have gone into fashion history. Visionaries.
Currently, as most of the collections are very very "revisited" (with some personality in the best cases) the rags that they put our grandmothers. From Prada to Louis Vuitton Amancio through the Empire, things are clear. Mad Men, Grease, soul, Motown and top of a lifetime.
This is not exclusive fashion. In music we have the same scenario. It began with the great Amy made us believe that listening to soul on the iPod was the most of everything modernez and the toupee, the roll pin up crappy neighborhood and was something new bandanas. Very 2000's. Next to it, although at a somewhat more trendy indie but we have much more to The Drum or The Meters. A recent news story announced that John Lurie, The Lounge Lizards leader and true king of cool, go hiding in Europe after leaving the California house of one of the Red Hot Chilly Peppers Where were ambushed fleeing a stalker who does not even let to sun or shade. And nobody has said to be a music star is easy.
The roll revival, retro, is more fashionable than ever. Now everything is retro, or what is worse, vintage. In most cases the same dog with different collar. My friend B told me the other day for the first time in his life he felt old. Why?. Perhaps a few kilos teenager and abundant hair had tried to "you" (damn courtesy rule depending on who and how you say you can make the dust the day)?. Perhaps he felt the first knee pain when rising from his chair in the office? . Or was it perhaps a wrinkle that was not yesterday there?. No. It was much easier than that. He realized that many things are in store for this winter had brought her and remembers her mother or taking them (blatant case of Zara skirts secretary). The sign of the times. The vagaries of fashion.
is true that nothing is as it was. It is true that the new look as such will never be seen on the streets but the aftertaste is seen, and known ... Since Galliano left to invent amazing collections to plagiarize without shame everything he did Monsieur Dior, what can we expect?.
How is it possible that people yearns for a Mini or a Beetle in version 2000 (that is, overdesigned, and without any of the charm that made the originals legendary)?.
is the natural reaction to the times of crisis?. Not long ago, a former economic adviser to Mitterrand's recent governments that Europe is headed to a super deep crisis that will make us root rethink who we are and where we go. Doomsayers aside, it seems clear that the advanced societies (the others pretty much have to survive) we look back at happier times, supposedly, in times of crisis like the present. That may be the success of a golden age in which families were perfect, ladies drink Martini at midnight between the rustle of their Cancano and the clink of her bracelets of diamonds. Men wore hair gel (and kept their hair) and the emergence of household appliances heralded a future of unparalleled comfort and convenience. A happiness by electronics.
And in the background, some reason they have. There is only a glimpse of the fabulous collection and campaign even more fabulous Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton to realize that anyone would want to live there permanently. Natalia Vodianova, Karen Elson and Christy Turlington beautiful and carefree apparent in a ladies room. Their husbands expect fuera tomando Dry Martini mientras suena jazz en un restaurante envuelto en humo de cigarrillos rubios. Todavía no habían llegado las prohibiciones ni existía eso tan inquientante que se llama Autoridades Sanitarias (el Santo Oficio del siglo XXI para los fumadores). Una delicia.
Mientras tanto, en una galaxia no muy lejana, los chicos y las chicas del Euskadi Ta Fashion nos proponen una vuelta al verdadero vintage: el reino de Navarra y el polar, esta vez con una propuesta de pañuelo de raso para la cara de lo más in que hace que destaque mucho más la chapela. Eso sí que es vintage y lo demás cuento.
Lo dicho. Los mismos perros con distinto collar.
Believe it or not, We are living in 2010. When I was little and thought in 2000 I imagined beaming it into college, picnicking colored pills provide all the energy I needed to live, sticking out my skate polish ultra light platinum silver with clothing. Since then, the future is never as expected.
Anyway, here I am, finishing the first decade of the new millennium and nothing that has come true. On the contrary, I have to take a conveyance dirty and clean every day, counting calories and crushing food always in the gym.
As if this were not enough, the surrounding reality persists, with stubbornness child in looking back constantly (I would say that ...). And is that enough to take a look around to realize that much remains for the future ideal of Huxley.
In the 60's, people of vision as Rabanne and Courreges dreamed of a future of plastic, straight lines and metal. Geniuses who have gone into fashion history. Visionaries.
Currently, as most of the collections are very very "revisited" (with some personality in the best cases) the rags that they put our grandmothers. From Prada to Louis Vuitton Amancio through the Empire, things are clear. Mad Men, Grease, soul, Motown and top of a lifetime.
This is not exclusive fashion. In music we have the same scenario. It began with the great Amy made us believe that listening to soul on the iPod was the most of everything modernez and the toupee, the roll pin up crappy neighborhood and was something new bandanas. Very 2000's. Next to it, although at a somewhat more trendy indie but we have much more to The Drum or The Meters. A recent news story announced that John Lurie, The Lounge Lizards leader and true king of cool, go hiding in Europe after leaving the California house of one of the Red Hot Chilly Peppers Where were ambushed fleeing a stalker who does not even let to sun or shade. And nobody has said to be a music star is easy.
The roll revival, retro, is more fashionable than ever. Now everything is retro, or what is worse, vintage. In most cases the same dog with different collar. My friend B told me the other day for the first time in his life he felt old. Why?. Perhaps a few kilos teenager and abundant hair had tried to "you" (damn courtesy rule depending on who and how you say you can make the dust the day)?. Perhaps he felt the first knee pain when rising from his chair in the office? . Or was it perhaps a wrinkle that was not yesterday there?. No. It was much easier than that. He realized that many things are in store for this winter had brought her and remembers her mother or taking them (blatant case of Zara skirts secretary). The sign of the times. The vagaries of fashion.
is true that nothing is as it was. It is true that the new look as such will never be seen on the streets but the aftertaste is seen, and known ... Since Galliano left to invent amazing collections to plagiarize without shame everything he did Monsieur Dior, what can we expect?.
How is it possible that people yearns for a Mini or a Beetle in version 2000 (that is, overdesigned, and without any of the charm that made the originals legendary)?.
is the natural reaction to the times of crisis?. Not long ago, a former economic adviser to Mitterrand's recent governments that Europe is headed to a super deep crisis that will make us root rethink who we are and where we go. Doomsayers aside, it seems clear that the advanced societies (the others pretty much have to survive) we look back at happier times, supposedly, in times of crisis like the present. That may be the success of a golden age in which families were perfect, ladies drink Martini at midnight between the rustle of their Cancano and the clink of her bracelets of diamonds. Men wore hair gel (and kept their hair) and the emergence of household appliances heralded a future of unparalleled comfort and convenience. A happiness by electronics.
And in the background, some reason they have. There is only a glimpse of the fabulous collection and campaign even more fabulous Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton to realize that anyone would want to live there permanently. Natalia Vodianova, Karen Elson and Christy Turlington beautiful and carefree apparent in a ladies room. Their husbands expect fuera tomando Dry Martini mientras suena jazz en un restaurante envuelto en humo de cigarrillos rubios. Todavía no habían llegado las prohibiciones ni existía eso tan inquientante que se llama Autoridades Sanitarias (el Santo Oficio del siglo XXI para los fumadores). Una delicia.
Mientras tanto, en una galaxia no muy lejana, los chicos y las chicas del Euskadi Ta Fashion nos proponen una vuelta al verdadero vintage: el reino de Navarra y el polar, esta vez con una propuesta de pañuelo de raso para la cara de lo más in que hace que destaque mucho más la chapela. Eso sí que es vintage y lo demás cuento.
Lo dicho. Los mismos perros con distinto collar.
Thursday, September 2, 2010
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